We're through vacation stage... took the better part of three weeks. I now feel like we are living in Bali. For those who have experienced this, it is a fascinating process. I caught myself frowning in distain at some tourists yesterday. It was as though if I had looked at myself in the mirror at that moment, I would gasped at the whiteness of my own skin. I know a little of the language, (emphasis little) and could find my way home if I got lost. I think. These things, I feel, entitle me to no longer be treated as a tourist. Those running the shops at the beach seem to disagree.

We love international life. I love that we live in a world that allows families of four to do what Columbus, Livingstone and Marco Polo did. All in the comfort of an air conditioned van of course. I love the dangerousness and exhilaration of experiencing things in the first person. So much more impactful than seeing a movie about it.

I did a silversmithing class last week. Loved it. I went back to the shop and asked them about making pieces back in Canada. They scribbled an address on a paper and sent me on my way. We hailed a taxi, and with a frown at the address off we went. Definetely out of the tourist zone, he pulled up to a small shop. I popped inside. Tools! It looked like a cross between a museum and a nearly bankrupt Lee Valley. Odd medical looking instruments, bottles of hydrichloric and nitric acid. Really exciting! The staff knew no English, and my pathetic charades skills were no help. I managed to get all the tools I needed, but they did not sell the raw silver. Instead, they scratched another address and sent me on my way.
Not far down the road were two little attached shops. Again in brutal Anglo-nesian, I managed to figure the process. Shop one sells you pure silver, and whatever other metals you want to either strengthen or cheapen your silver. The neighbour forms it into whatever style or type you need to make your jewelry. I went the purist route, what they call 925. 92.5% silver, 7.5% copper for strength. Next door, they heat and mix the two in a clay bowl, and pour it into a bar mold. Then there are a series of hydraulic presses and pulling machines that allow you to make flat, square, or round bar or string. This whole process, including all the tools and enough silver to make a dozen rings cost less than two simple pieces of silver jewelry in Canada would cost. Wow. I'm pretty excited. High hopes, we shall see.

We are now staying at our final destination. Sanur is a quiet beach town and will be a great place to smooth out the kinks in my tan and relax.

Oh yea... the pictures.

The dark one is the spectacular 'moon-rise' on the beach in Sanur. About a half hour after the sun sets... the moon rises. Tonight it was a spectacular full moon, and a glorious red. Pardon the sloppy photography, I'm still learning.

POCARI SWEAT. Brilliant name. When you begin to get dehydrated, you actually stop sweating. This ion infused drink helps prevent dehydration, thereby allowing you to continue sweating. Good ole sweat in a can... wonder if it would be popular in Canada?

Oh yes, Cadence the Alligator. And Shepherd the model, who will no longer allow his picture to be taken unless he is given ample time to prepare his smile.

Goodbye Ubud, Bali Budda and a Song

We leave our little home in Ubud today. And I think I may have tears. Not sappy tears about the beauty of the ricefields or the amazing arts all in one place, but the kind you have when you've just experienced something really great. Like the end of summer camp. We've come to the end of "summer camp" in Ubud.

We are leaving for Sanur today. The lazy beach town and relaxing spot. A good place we feel to finish off our last week in Bali. We don't have internet at our hotel however, so we will try and post when we can find an internet cafe.

Today at breakfast we realized just how much the international culture is affecting the kids. A lovely Chinese family had been making faces at Sheppy and when the Grandmother got up to get something and walked passed the table Sheppy replied, "Nee-how" ( Mandarin for hello) She was delighted! I would like to take the credit, but I know it is from the Canadian kids show "Kai lan"... but none the less, impressive that he put it together. We found a nice little cafe in Ubud called the Bali Budda. It has a kids area with toys and yummy healthy food. The kids always enjoy going. However, it is at the end of a very long street and Cadence always feels it is a little too far when we are hungry and hot. She has started saying, Ïts a long ways to Bali Budda isn't guys?" Even when we are not going to Bali Budda. It is just code for I am hungry and hot- Cadsy style.

We walked around Monkey Forest Road yesterday, popping our heads into numerous bead stores and others that peaked our interest. I was carrying Sheps on my back and enjoying the endless chatter and commentary he was providing. As we passed yet another stray dog, I could hear: " Theres a puppy... we don't touch the puppies in Bali.. no touching the animals in Bali... I use my superpowers to not touch you puppy.... I shu you, shu shu puppy.... I macka macka you, you come near me..." followed by a "Macka,Macka You Puppy song".

Thank you to all who are follwing us, we've loved the encouragement.

Lindsay and Fam

Twirling, Zoos and Beautiful Black Jewels

I walked in on a dance class going on in our living room. Lulu was teaching Papa the basic dances (a mixture of her favourites, she explains) that we all must learn. There is spinning, jumping, twirling and even some somersaults. Lulu gives the example, Papa promptly repeats.
Sheppy and I decided to join in the fun. However, we learned, there are levels to this game. I was awarded a sticker after my first rendition- showing it off to Papa he put me in my place by displaying his "four stickered" shoulder. A level four... wow. Sheppy was content to watch. Enough of this Balinese/ Canadian madness... it's time to brush our teeth.

We went to the Bali Safari Park today. A mix of Indonesian, African and Indian animals. The kids were ecstatic to feed the elephants. It was a little unnerving for me to have these powerful beasts grabbing carrots out of our hands and rubbing their long trunks on us to ask for more. There was much walking and picture taking and a lovely little trolley ride around the park in which you could get a closer look at the animals.

We were all the way over to the East coast and so I asked the driver to pull over at the ocean so that I could see the black sand I had read about. Bali has black, white and regular colored sand depending on where you are.

Andy our driver walked me through a little fishing hub complete with the latest catch swimming in what can only be described as the "sludge of the seas" ice bins. There was everything, large to small. I don't think many tourists ever come there and so they watched me closely and some even held up their prized sea treasures for my viewing and smelling pleasure. I don't think I will eat seafood for a while.

The sand was like black jewels. Pure delight. Jeff laughed when I carried a handful all the way back to the car so that they too could also see the beauty.

The sun has set. There are now bed time stories and cuddles to be had. Bali holds another day for us tomorrow...

Good night all.

International life.

There are several honeymooners staying at the same place as us now. Kuwait, Japan, Germany, France and India all represented. Makes for very fun conversations. There is a fun commraderie amongst foreigners, kind of a 'we're all lost together' thing.

I don't think these pictures require much explaining except for the spider. This is a fairly common, completely harmless outdoor spider, eerily beautiful with an almost 4" wingspan. Eeww.

p.s. For those who have been following the news in South Asia, None of this seems to have rippled this far. Odd that regional troubles seem not to effect us, but a volcano on the other side of the world might.

Drip,drip,drop little April Showers

I sat in an open balinese living room while the tropical rain thundered around me. Safe in my little space the air was warm and humid. The rice field frogs often come jumping in after the last of the pounding stops. They are tiny (by Bali standards around 2-3") and we have found them in the shower as well.

Once the rain stops we are heading in to Ubud market. Will post again soon.

The Rempels

Cadsy at Dreamland Beach

We've been waiting for a solid enough internet connection to try this for two weeks now. It's a fairly large video, so please be patient, it's worth the wait.

of Money and Magic Potties

The value of the Indonesian Rupiah is at just under $9000 per US dollar. I'm sure that many factors influence this, but it has been a bit of an adjustment receiving bills for dinner for hundreds of thousands of dollars. Thankfully their money is similar to Canada with many different colors. I did once almost tip $60 what should have been $6. Luckily I had a honest waiter.

Our driver today lamented that his 60 year old father lost his rice crop for the fourth time in as many harvests to rats. There was great compassion in his voice for the plight of his family, and he was soo thankful for the $10 we paid for an hour in his car. (Oddly, gas is less than 50 cents per litre here...go figure!)

There is one picture I felt required special attention. Cadsie has always had a bit of an issue with toilets. She is fine at home, but she had one especially traumatic experience with one of those automatic sensor toilets at IKEA a year ago. Since then, these evil contraptions have been referred to as 'Magic Potties.' Despite several successful escapades since, every new bathroom has to be fastidiously inspected prior to use.

One thing we've appreciated here is the lack of 'Magic Potties,' However, we underestimated the prevalence of 'squat potties.' They are a step above a hole in the ground, but not much of a step,(pun intended) what they gain in offering privacy, they lose in offering privacy to cockroaches. I am pleased to announce that Cadence is the bravest of us all, and the only one to conquer these hygienic atrocities! (She does however have the benefit of having me act as a human hammock / toilet seat.)

The Good Night Leaf was found on our pillow tonight. Many such sweet surprises arrive here. The flower is called Frangipani and is as pretty to smell as to look at. And so we to wish you good night. (Though I suppose it is now 7 in the morning there...)

Silver, Rain and a new home.

I apologize for the lapse in time between posts on occasion, it is usually due to a change in venue for us. The Cadsie and Sheppy show must go on at all costs!

There is a picture of the kids with two local ladies, Made and Putu. The villa we were staying at includes breakfast. After eating, the kids have a ritual to hop down and 'sneak' up on Putu and Made and surprise them with thank yous.

We've moved homes yesterday. Basically last week we we're renting a private home, this week we are living in one of five tree-houses. (not literally, they are just open below and closed above) We then share a common space, pool and whatever else we like with those that live beside us.

We are very much enjoying one family that lives here. John and Sarah are from the UK and are on a trip around the world to 'find a new home.' They've just come from India, which appearantly was a little to hot for them... They have a daughter Alulah, who is the same age as Cadence, and they get along famously. (Other than Alulah's lovely British accent confounds her.) It is also quite fun that we call Cadence 'Lulu' and they call Alulah 'Lula.'

I (Jeff) took a silver-smithing class today. It was a wonderful experience. Though I must admit, I regularly had the 'this would be soo much easier with a dremmel tool or a proper vise or a thing-a-ma-jig.' However, though a fairly rookie piece, I'm pretty excited about the craft and may bring some supplies back with me to make more. (If you have to ask how much I'll sell them for...you cant afford them! Just kidding!)

Sadly it rained almost all day today... but otherwise we have been blessed with wonderful weather. Tomorrow we hope to make the long trek to the 'best' textile market in Bali. It is quite a trek to get there, but around here, the trip is often as fun as the destination.

Kopi Luwak, Monkeys and Ants.

Here are some of the pictures from our adventures over the last few days.

A regular habit of ours is what me and the kids have come to call 'favorite things' Lindsay will ask us what our favorite thing about a person, meal, day or anything. While sometimes difficult, it is an excellent attitude changer.

My favorite thing of the last few days has to be the drinking of the Kopi Luwak. For those who have heard of this, you will appreciate what a moment this was for me. For those who have not... google! I'm bringing some home for those who would like to sample... but fresh, it is sublime!

There is a picture of what appears to be a small floral meal on the sidewalk. This is a typical example of an offering. These beautiful little palm leaf boxes are filled with several different natural and food items, each with symbolic meanings, they are then placed in strategic areas of the home. There are 3.3million Balinese; 95% Hindu, lets be pessimistic at 4-5people per home. There are at least three locations in a home to cover. Not including temples (of which each community has several) nor those in front of businesses or on the windsheild of cars, it is easy to presume that there are several million of these little beauties out today. This is a ceremony that takes place every 5 days!

We went to the Monkey forest today, but had a short visit. While fascinating it is a sad place. The monkeys are protected by Hindu beliefs, but the sale of bannanas and the nature of primates has created a dangerous combination and the monkeys have become aggressive. We were warned to hold the kids, not wear jewelry and be cautious. What did me in was the guards with sling-shots... just didn't have the right feel. Soo a picture of me and our little monkeys at the gate will have to suffice... (and no sling shots were required to keep them in line!)

Lindsay had an ant (we presume, though perhaps a wasp) fly into her eye after dinner today and bite her. I had one of these ants bite me on the shoulder earlier today and it is quite similar to a deerfly. She is a real trooper, and seems to be recovering well. There is a level of panic in a situation like that that we as adults can process fairly quickly, but poor Shepherd had a bit of a hard go. This is largely my fault as I have tried to overcome his inquisitive nature with fear in order to protect him from the dangers here. Because of this he is very aware of bugs and a little too stressed about them. Lindsay, though she had every reason to be shook up, did admirably. Shepherd needed a little more re-assurance... poor guy.

I'm certain this will come up in conversation a few times tomorrow...

From Volcanoes to Ricefields

We are here in Ubud and have decided this is our favourite place so far. It is artsy and quiet and seems to really let the culture of Bali shine. Lots of really yummy restaurants and places to look at textiles and jewelry.

I can hear Cadence and Jeff in the pool and Sheppy is sleeping in the bed next to me. Its a lovely sunny day and I am resting my very sore muscles. Yesterday was such an adventure. We loaded on the bug spray and sun screen and went on a days adventure to a coffee plantation, the Burong Lake and main volcano on the island and rented bikes to go through the villages and rice fields.

The restaurant we ate at overlooked the volcano. It was sooo beautiful up there. Even on the drive up I could feel the difference in altitude. But the mild wooziness was worth the stunning view.

Next, we got on our bikes (kids to the back) and headed off to see the countryside. As we wizzed through villages and suburbs, little kids would run out to try and give us a high-five. I was lucky just to keep my balance with Sheppy on the back, so I could only offer a quick, "hello". I wish I could have rode and videotaped at the same time. It was soooo incredible to see Bali by bike. I am also glad I worked out some before coming because it was incredibly challenging at times.

We were in awe for the 4 hours we biked, having many moments of, "we are biking through the Balinese rice fields...seriously??" Towards the last leg, we approached the last hill and i just....couldn't..... make it........ When I got off to push up the hill Cadsy made sure to remind me, Mom, I don't think this is how your supposed to ride a bike. Little stinker.

When I made it up, our guide congratulated me. Super Mom, he said, you just hit the 45 km mark. Yes. SUPER MOM indeed. :-) Now you understand why I have sore muscles today.

What a day. Lots of time to reflect on our journey so far. Lots of moments to be thankful. Thankful for safety and health and opportunity. I catch myself worrying a lot here. Making sure the kids are okay- but it is moments like this that I see we are not just in HIS hands, we are riding in his palm.

Playgroup

Our Hostess, Ketut invited us to come along to play group with her and her daughter Jesinta. While I am not a frequent attendee at our High River playgroup, I know how things go. Hard working mommies come to get adult conversation, hopefully a half cup of coffee and let their kids blow off some steam. The conversation, between constant runny nose and 'who hit who' interuptions centres on a few topics. To get or not to get the H1N1, minivan or 5th wheel, who knows a good sitter, yada yada yada...

Here it goes a little differently; (though the runny nose and who hit who is identical!) 'Yea, got Dengue fever last year, horrible.' - 'Think I finally have my hubby convinced to upgrade our moped to a 125cc engine... just cant make it up the hills with 100cc's and all four of us on there, let alone with groceries!'

Without waxing nostalgic, I owe any of my forefathers an apology if I rolled my eyes at them over the good old days. The good old days aren't about fuzzy memories of greener grass, they are still here in Bali, and are a tangible way of life that is actually more 'real' than what I've entrenched myself in for most of my adult life. Don't get me wrong, I'll come home and get right back to work... I don't have much genetic choice in the matter. But it is good for me.

It's true what they say about life passing us by. Only here, it goes slow enough that you can see it.

Farewell Jimbaran, Welcome Ubud

Well we said goodbye to our little villa in Ungasan, Jimbaran area and headed on the 1 1/2 journey to Ubud area. There are no real road systems here, so most navigation is by landmarks. Many of the main roads you see on a map are only just wide enough for two vehicles to pass. We're settled into our villa here and already loving it.

Even though Ungasan was beautiful, this feels much more comfortable. I think this is largely due to the fact that few tourists come here. Even those that do, do not come to be tourists, they come to live and engage.

I'm loving the modern cultural clashes here. My favorite is the shrimp and seaweed pringles. I have not yet had the stomach to try them. There are many funny signs as well, most humorous because of the hybrid Bahasia-English that has evolved here. The language is a soft language, with many similar sounds to English, but in their language, there are no rules about word order or context. Today there was a sign in a store that simply said 'Buy 1 Free.' They also say all their words exactly as they are written. As such there are many taksi drivers and jacuzzy cleaners around.

The picture of the kids and the fish is a common tourist attraction. These little suckers (literally) are natural exfoliators. People pay $100,000 rupiah (about $12 Canadian)to put their feet into these tubs for 20 minutes. The kids get to try their hands for free and absolutely love the tickly fish, but you could not pay Lindsay enough to try a finger...

There is a funny mix of mysticism and reality here. For example there are 'Jumra' every where (small auto-body shops) But there are two types. The first and more common are the standard body shop; get a dent pay the repair price, a few hours later you get your car back repaired. However the others are magic auto repair shops. (This is not a joke... comical, but not a joke) You bring your car in, pay the magic price (moderately more than the standard repair price, hmmm...) They take your car into their shop, which you are not allowed to enter because you are not an auto-body priest, and a few hours later... you get your car back, dent free. It is sad and remarkable at the same time.

We've always enjoyed Balinese styling, design and craft. This is creating a frustration for us as many of the beautiful things we would like to purchase are too large to fit in our suitcases... So today we did some export research. At this point we're not too serious about and significant business potential, but the prices on many of these goods are incredible. Wood and stone carvings, silver jewelry, textiles all hand made. If any of you are interested, please get ahold of us, should we decide to bring some back with us, it would be easy to add other things to our order.

Off to bed... there really is something to this 'early to bed and early to rise' idea...

Hoolies in Paradise

We've noticed a lot of growing up in our little nugato's this week. Until we got our bearings a little bit, we've been pretty hard on them in the listening and staying close department. They have both done well and are now regularly reminding us to wash our hands and not touch the dogs.

While Shepy has the occasional stubborn moment, he has proven incredibly resiliant to the heat and changes in schedule. He's tough, and is learning that his 'blond and blue'novelty factor has its perks. He's started playing to the crowd with coy smiles and waves, this results in a small novelty or chocholate bar about once in ten people... he has noted this and this has significantly slowed our path through shopping areas.

Cadsie has literally grown... we'll confirm it on her growth chart when we get home, but we're guessing it could be an inch. Luckily, she is a good body type for Balinese local clothing.

We've been here almost a week, and I'm just today finding my western intensity being overcome by Balinese sensibility. They are such a kind people, it is hard to ajust to. (A sad acknowldegement) Initially it reminds one of the 'too friendly' sales people in the mall, you know they don't care about you, just the potential sale you represent. Here it is opposite, many staff prevent us from viewing their wares in favor of chatting and sharing.

We head to Ubud tomorrow, about a two hour drive inland. Ubud is the cultural center of the island, so we are looking forward to seeing some dances and doing some of the handi-craft work ourselves. Lindsay plans on Batik'ing (a special wax/dyeing process on fabric) and I'm hoping to try my hand at silversmithing... should be a blast...

Day at the beach

We spent the day at the beach in Dreamland yesterday, one of those places where the postcards come from. It was incredible, and I have the lightly burned shoulders to prove it. We made a balinese temple sandcastle and a princess Ariel sculpture, were entertained by a small hermit crab and played in the surf. We have a hilarious video of the kids in the surf, I try and post it once we get a more reliable internet connection. I have not yet gained the nerve to try surfing, between my mediocre swimming skills and the barnacles and tentacles awaiting me below, I'm not sure yet that I will. But I'd like to think I could.

Lindsay bought me a Balinese architecture book a few months before we left, and I contacted a few of the Architects that were featured in its pages. Last night I connected with one who was kind enough to show me a few of his projects. (his home is the modern beauty shown above) Incredible and inspiring, though a little too tempting for a summer job...

We went to Church in the capital city, we were expecting a small quaint gathering... instead found ourselves in the middle of a 1000 person church! We were the only 'tourists' that we saw, but thankfully the speaker was a pastor from Florida, or we wouldn't have understood a thing! Very Fun.

'Stop Makan Yuuuk!' We found this quite humorous as the name for a restaurant, but had an incredibly difficult time explaining this humor to Wayan, our driver.

We're all adapting to the heat pretty well, though I biked to the store to get some baking (less than a kilometer round trip) and I looked as though I had come through a monsoon on arriving home! On the plus side, between what the dietary changes do to your digestive system and the heat I look forward to burning off my Candian winter hibernation weight.

Bali Life

So I think we are starting to figure out a groove here. It is all so different and so interesting. When we grocery shop we wander the isles laughing at all the "weird to us" items. Twinkie's filled with cheese anyone? Or jelly juice? Sometimes just the labels are cool. We eat breakfast at home, its been these buns with chocolate baked in them- kind of like nutella along with some fruit. We all seem to wake up with the sun (yes, even me (Lindsay)) around 5:30-6. Our bedrooms have aircon but not the main rooms.

The heat immediatly clings to you. The first few days we were all so flushed. The kids looked like they were in a hot tub. No wise cracks on my hair, it is "wild woman" here and there is no stopping it. Jeff and I have just gotten use to our shirts clinging to us and you just accept the sweatyness you become. You just go with it. We carry the kids everywhere. We brought carriers so we can piggyback them with support, it works really well. I think a stroller would be awkward on stairs and the uneven sidewalks.

We are enjoying the random cock-a-doodle-doos we hear throughout the day. Not sure where the chickens are, but we can hear them. There is also a random clucking/chirp.... we learned yesterday it is the geckos. They laughed when I asked if it was crickets.

We venture out on our adventures by 9. I have climbed into the driver side twice now, to Wayans surprise (It is on the right). And off we go...

Today is Dreamland Beach. Will post pics soon.

Batik and the Temple by the sea

Today is a relax day, mostly to recover from the heat yesterday.

We left early yesterday to do some sightseeing, hit a couple of the popular shopping and view locations. Then off to a batik factory to watch the textile manufacturing process. It is a beautiful art to watch. Then we traveled south to Tanah Lot, known by most as the temple by the sea. It is straight out of a movie, beautiful and surreal.

I've included a picture of Wayan Kodang with the kids, as they (we) have been welcomed into their family. The kids have a certain celebrity here, not because of their skin and hair color, as Austrailians are common, but for their smiles. The Balinese are a very happy people, even the hawkers selling their wares are graceful and kind about their offerings, and they all too often forget their products in favor of a chat with Cadence or Shepherd.

The safety rules of Bali are decades behind the west. The picture of Cadsie and I on the bridge is as frightening as it looks... We are 75 feet above the crashing surf. No guard rails, not even a sign of warning. The same goes for the rules of the road, it's right hand drives prevailed, and while center lines are all marked, but they seem to function more as a suggested consideration. While the roads are crazy, and compounded by the 2 motorbikes to 1 vehicle ratio, it actually feels safer than north american roads. In order to survive on these roads, you have to know how to drive and be continually aware of everyone else around you. This is a stark contrast to North America, where is seems as though we forego concious driving in favor of perpetual increases in safety systems. I doubt this observation will ever influence change in the west, but it is fascinating.


Today was a great day of relaxing, we chilled by the pool, read and played. We walked a kilometer into town for lunch, groceries and coffee, and back for dinner at 'home'. It was interesting that while at lunch, we couldn't help but notice that the background music was Christian worship. We were the only ones in the restaraunt, so we asked about it. It turns out the Owners of the restaurant, a young couple, are Javanese. They moved to Bali six months ago to start their restaurant. We struck up a quick friendship with them, and are looking forward to going with them to their church on Sunday.

Cadsie mentioned that she missed her home today, but only in passing, and all was forgotten at the mention of a dip in the pool.